February 23, 2024

Custom suits are not only an option for the wealthy, but they can be very affordable if you choose a quality tailor. They are usually sturdier than off-the-rack suits, and they can be more flattering for the average man than a generic fit. They also offer a wide variety of styling options such as lapel style (notch, peaked or shawl) and width, vents, pocket style (jetted, flapped, patch), lining color and button type. They can even be made with matching trousers or a waistcoat.

While a great tailor can do quite a bit with off-the-peg suits, the shoulder box and sleeve diameter are extremely difficult to alter once they have been cut. A custom or MTM suit is the only way to guarantee that these important parts of your garment will fit correctly from the start.

There are three levels of custom tailoring: MTM, semi-bespoke and fully bespoke. Many of the online MTM brands, such as Indochino and Black Lapel, use “block patterns” based on common sizes to maintain consistency in their size offerings. The measurements taken of your body are used to determine which pattern to use.

In contrast, a bespoke tailor can usually offer any fabric that you can imagine, and they often have swatches of over 3000 fabrics in their showroom. They can also add special features like a secret pocket inside the jacket, monogramming your initials (key for wedding suits) and coordinating linings. Bespoke tailors can also incorporate other details into your custom garment, such as a special thread used to sew the button-holes or a small embroidered design on the chest of the jacket. Custom suits

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